Friday, October 30, 2009

the fat tie

3.5" and above club. Good bye my skinny, we had great times. Thought this still may be impractical for every day use, depending on your firm, what's stopping you from throwing one on for a fun celebration (birthday, promotion, New Year's) or even mix with casual attire for a Sunday brunch?

You'll probably get some low-brows from the JTimberlake set, but you'll be pleased to obtain some nods and smirks from the more knowing, particularly along 9th Ave. around West 50's or so on weekday nights.

Though the two shown above are done in black, I prefer some color and patterns to accentuate its playful and intended gaucheness. After all, I'm wearing them usually at parties rather than every day office. Why not live a little as they're great for playfully jabbed conversation starters?

In NY or visiting soon? We all covet Thomas Pink and Hermes threads, but why not swing uptown to Seigo Neckwear at 90th and Madison. Lower price points, daunting selections, and unmatched service.

Tuesday, October 27, 2009

the top & the pea

In my opinion, there is nothing sexier and more amorous than a crisp, fitted topcoat. You can pair and juxtapose with sweats and t-shirt underneath, yet the chilled aura that only a topcoat can provide still resonates. This should be standard in every man's closet (I still prefer the trench for the ladies, though some have successfully made me think otherwise).

Who wouldn't want a camel Gucci topcoat (shown above)? For the entry level professional, or the fiscally sane, we're blessed with Express' progressive vision regarding their outerwear. They offer slimmer waistlines and their lapels carry a higher nodge placement while generally being slimmer (without being overly-trendy) than a topcoat at say, Brooks Brothers (though I still highly suggest BB's Oxfords if not for their service policy alone).

Currently, I'd shy away from peacoats just because every major label already carries its own version; and they all follow the general rules of large collars, 1/4 short length, six button, etc. We've seen it all, but again we're appreciative of Express' forward-thinking by providing us with a plaid peacoat (above) for those interested in something slightly different.

Color suggestions for every day use topcoats are charcoal and navy. Camel is the most coveted, but there's an unspoken rule, at least in NYC, that camel is reserved for managing directors, partners, and C-officers. Not in NYC? Then you're in luck. Black is still too common (give us a bit of variety Express!) and best reserved for funerals or formal functions. But, the general rule of thumb is that fit always precedes color.

Regarding length, the topcoat normally sits a fist above the knee. However, modern versions, ie from Theory Apollo, have been inching up closer to mid-thigh and even further up.

Lastly, find tweed. I've yet to see a tweed topcoat (though there are several peacoats) that possess a similar cut described above. If you find one, please let me know!

Wednesday, October 21, 2009

moss green

Fall's color is moss green. Not to be confused with the flirty pop greens of springs past from playful DVF and Louis Vuitton, we are instead maturely embraced with deep greens from Andrea Dixon and Isaac Mizrahi above, and even a subtler, tongue-in-cheek watered moss from MARC by Marc Jacobs below.

Whereas green once denoted a playful trend in 'green technology,' as seen in previous collections showcasing lime and fresh turf, we are now welcomed with an umbrageous, adult green that still holds onto a bit of its playfulness. The natural feel is more leafy New England than fresh Silicone Valley this time around.

To enhance its earthy essence, preferable textures I run to are wool, tweed, or heavy knits. If I'm in a playful mood, stale and flat yellows (as opposed to bright yellows from previous spring), pair wonderfully with the moss aesthetic. Gotta love fall.

Saturday, October 17, 2009

the patterned jacket

I'll keep my classic two-button navy and charcoal jackets handy, but their now commercial overuse has left me itching for new dew.

Enter the patterned suit. Shown from both sides of the spectrum are Fendi's chaotic yet controlled cardigan, and Gucci's more subtle yet still slightly lustrous skin.

Since the jackets' movement undoubtedly commands another's eyes, I prefer to balance this gleam with supporting solids as opposed to plaid or further patterns to avoid the impression of contrivance. Despite the slight shimmer and excitement of these jackets, the truth is that the entire ensemble should still breathe a sense of effortless simplicity, and subtle solids are the quickest way there.

To add, I'd avoid pairing the sublime Gucci jacket with matching pants shown in the picture, as matching hasn't been around since 2006.

Sidenote: I've always admired Fendi's Men's line as they've always had an air of understatement among a sea of more avant-garde trends, so I thought it particularly brilliant that this zestful jacket emerged from them.